Improvement in sewing-machines



4 SheetsSheet 1. A. WARTH.

Sewing Machine.

Patented Oct. 16, 1866.

Q L 3 b o If 1 K iguana: 111M: lmmmmnmmnmun!- m'z nedvea'-- 2 i :I

4 Sheets-Sheet 2.

A. WARTH.

Sewing Machine.

Patented Oct. 16, 1866.

' 4 Sheets-Sheet 3. A. WARTH.

Sewing Machine.

Patented Oct. 16, 1866.-

4 Sheets-Sheet 4,

A. WARTH.

[ma for.

l N w .m o Q M h r o m a 0 M M g... NXWN M g o 8A? n -m V A R w H o u a M-N o w I o m M ON. \u w a: z mw xx 0- N UNITED STATES PATENT QFFICE.

ALBIN \VARTII, F STAPLETON, NEW YORK.

IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING-MACHINES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 58,925, dated October 16, 1866.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ALBIN \VAR'JJII, of Stapleton, in the county of Richmond and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description thereof, which will enable others skilled in the art to make and use the same, reference being bad to the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, in which- Figure 1 represents a longitudinal vertical section ot'this invention. Fig. 2 is an inverted plan of the same. Figs.3 and 3* are diagrams illustrating the mode oft'ormingthe lockstitch. Fig. 4 is a plan or top view of the mechanism for producing the coil lock-stitch by passing the shuttle once through the loop of the needle-thread. Figs. 5, 6, and T are diagrams i1- lustrating the manner in which this stitch is formed. Fig. 8 is a plan or top view of another mechanism t'or the purpose of forming a coil lock-stitch. Figs. 9, 10, and 1.1 are diagrams illustrating the manner in which the stitch is formed. Fig. 12 is a plan or top view of the mechanism for producing the coil lockstitch it the shuttle passes twice through the same loop of the needle-thread. Figs. 13, 14, and 15 are diagrams illustrating the manner in which the stitch is made. Fig. 16 is a. plan or top view of the mechanism which is used to produce what is known as the Grover& Baker stitch. Fig. 17 is a similar view of the mechanism used for producing the simple chain-stitch. Fig. 18 is a sectional end view of the entire sewing-machine. Fig. 19 is a sectional plan of the needle-bar and the de vices for retaining and pulling out the slack ot' the needle-thread. Fig. 20 is a detached elevation of the flat-shank needle. Fig. 21 is a horizontal section of the same on an enlarged scale, with the thread represented in the groove. Fig. 22 is an end view of the drivingshat't, with its appendages. Fig. 23 is a plan of the single-pointed flat-bottomed shuttle which is used in this sewing-machine. Fig. 24 is a side elevation of the same. Fig. 25 is a plan of the double-pointed shuttle. Fig. 26 is a side elevation of the same. Fig. 2? is a plan of the sewing-gnile. Fig. is a sectional side elevation of the same. Fi 29 isa side elevation of the edge-guide. Fig. 30 is a sectional end view of the same. Fig. 31 is a plan of the binder. Fig. 32 is an end view of the same. Fig. 33 is a plan of the horizontal shuttle-race, which can be substituted for the vertical shuttle-race shown in the previous figures. Fig. 3. is a sectional side elevation of the same. Fig. 35 is a view of the coil lockstitch.

Similar letters of reference indicate like parts. 7

This invention relates to a. sewing-machine in which the feed-motion of the material to be sowed is produced by the action of the needle, and which is provided with a shuttle which has a revolving motion in a stationary shuttlerace, and which is made either with one point and a rounded stern or with two points, one at each end, either of which can be made to pass through the loop of the needle-thread, the driving-shaft and shuttle-driver heingrevolved continuously in either direction.

If a stitch of extraordinary firmness is required the motion of the shuttle is accelerated, so that the same passes twice through the loop of the needle-thread before the needle rises. In this case the arm which takes up the slack of the needle-thread is provided with an oblong slot, so that said arm is allowed to rise a certain distance without pulling up the neodle-thread, and the loop is kept open suiticiently long to let the shuttle pass through it twice.

The needle is constructed with a fiat shank, provided with one or more holes, whereby the thread is carried close down in the needle, and a lateral strain on said needle is prevented. The shank of the needle is slotted to permit its adjustment in the needle-driver.

The spring which serves to retain the needle-thread to prevent the formation of a loop on the upper surt'ace of the material to be sewed is so arranged that it retains said thread for a short time, and just long enough to give the needle time to descend, thereby avoiding all undue strain on the needle-thread. The cloth-plate is provided with a braid-guide, so that the braid can be passed between the material to be sewed and the cloth-plate, and that the chain-stitch can be made to appear on the surface of the braid. During the time the stitch is made the material to be sewed is firmly held between a rough-surfaced clamp and the ordinary presser-foot; and the operation of finishing each stitch is accomplished at the moment that portion of the shuttle from which the shuttle-thread emanates passes opposite the needle.

An elastic center in the shuttle-race, or in the slnittle-driver, or in both, serves to keep the shuttle-thread subject to a certain tension and prevents the shuttle from catching in the loop of its own thread. The shuttle is inclosed in a circular ease or box, which is provided with a hook, that assists in carrying the thread or threads over the back of the shuttle. The shuttle-race is provided with a central cavity, which allows the sh uttle to clear its own thread and permits the loop of the needle-thread to pass freely over the shuttle. A ridge on the sole of the shuttle, and near its outer edge, allows said shuttle to pass freely through the loop of the needlethread without causin g said thread to twirl.

In case shuttles and thread-guides of different size or shape are to be used in the same machines, the shuttle-driver is mounted on a shaft which passes through the hollow driving-shaft, and which is provided with anotchcd button and spring-stop, in such a manner that by turning the notched button the machine can be readily adjusted for the shuttle and thread-guide to be used.

\Vith the hollow driving-shaft and the spindle which carries the shuttle-driver is combined a back gear, which, when thrown in gear with the driving-shaft, causes the shuttle to make two revolutions for each stroke of the needle, and consequently the shuttle is made to pass twice through the loop of the needlethread, and a stitch of peculiar firmness is p rod u ee d The thread-guides used in producing the coil-stitch retain the shuttle-thread or the nee dle-thread and hold it in the proper position, according to the stitch to be produced; and hooks of peculiar construction are used in combination with the needle-one to produce the ordinary chain-stitch, and one to produce what is generally known as the Grover & taker stitch.

A represents the stand, which is made of metal or any other suitable material. The upper surface of this stand forms the cloth-plate, which serves to support the material to be sewed; and from the rear portion of said stand rises the standard I), the front end of which forms the guide for the needle-slide G, whereas its rear end supports the fulcrum-pin a of the arm or lever l), which is actuated by the cam E on the driving-shaft F, and which connects, by a rod, 11, with one arm of the elbowlcverd, the other arm of which connects, by a rod, 0, with the needle-slide 0. This necdle-slide is constructed in two parts, like that described in Letters Patent granted to me May 29, 1866, and a vibrating motion is imparted to the lower portion thereof by the action of an inclined jects from the end of the standard B.

plane, which is adjustable by a set-screw, and which is so situated that it acts on the needleslide during the time the needle is in the material to be sewed, so that the feed-motion of said material is produced by the action of the needle )1. As the needle rises, and after its point has cleared the material to he sewed, another inclined plane carries the needle-slide back to its original position. To the pendulum part of the needle-slide is connected the elastic pad which assists the needle in feeding the material to be sewed. This pad is connected to a slide, which moves up and down in a suitable case, and a button or other suitable stop serves to retain it when it is raised, so that it can be thrown outot' action whenever it may be desirable.

The needle-thread is taken from the spool 8*, which is supported by the standard B, and it passes round an elastic roller, which is mounted on a suitable pin between two disks of felt or other suitable material, and from said roller it passes through an eye in the outer end of an arm which extends from the front end of the standard 13, and thence through an eye on the edge of a yoke,f, which also pro- From this eye the thread passes through the oscillating arm g, which receives its motion from the elbow-lcver d. This arm is provided in its end with an oblong slot, it, so that it is free to move a certain distance before it takes up the slack of the thread, thus giving the shuttle time to pass twice through the same loop of the needle-thread, as will be hereinafter explained.

The spring 1 at the side of the yokef, which retains the needle-thread and prevents the formation of a loop on the upper surface of the cloth-plate or of the material to be sewed, is so constructed that it retains the thread only until the point of the needle touches the material to be scwedthat is to say, until the danger of the needle catching in the loop of its own thread is avoided, and by these means all unnecessary strain or friction on the needlethrcad is avoided.

The needle 12 is provided with a broad, flat, and slotted shank, a, as shown particularly in Fig. 20, the thickness of said. shank being equal to the thickness of the needle, and the slot affording the means of adjustment in the needlebar. Said shank is perforated with one or more holes, a through which the thread passes, and the thread, in passing down from said hole or holes to the eye of the needle, lies close to the stem ofthe needle, so that in sewing all lateral strain on the needle is avoided, and thereby an immense advantage is gained, particularly in sewing leather or other hard materiils.

In ordinary sewingnnachines the lateral strain of the thread, caused by its oblique position toward the needle, causes said needle to vibrate, and in sewing leather the needle is liable to break, particularly if the machine is run at a high speed. By the use of my fiatshank needle this difficulty is avoided, and the machinecan be run as quick as may be desirable without danger of breaking the needle.

A rough-surfaced clamp, j, which is situated in an aperture in the cloth-plate right under the presser-foot, prevents the material to be sewed from changing its position spontaneously. This clamp is secured to the end of an upright bar, 7:, which is supported by a lever, 1, that is pivoted to a hanger, m, suspended from the under surface of the cloth-plate. From the end of this lever projects an arm, 0, which bears against a cam, 11, on the drivingshaft, so that by the action of said cam a ris ingand -falling motion is imparted to the clampj. The cam 11 is tapering, and the arm 0 on the lever l is adjustable by a screw, q, so that the risin g-and-fallin g motion of the clamp can be increased or diminished at pleasure.

The motion of the clamp j is so timed that it descends below the surface of the clothplate as the needle begins to enter the material to be sewed, and as the needle leaves the material the clamp is raised and the material is held tight between the same and the presser-foot, thus preventing it from changing its position spontaneously.

The hole 8 in the cloth-plate, (see Figs. 33 and 34,) through which the needle descends, is oblong, to allow the required feed-motion of the needle, and close in front of said hole is another hole, 0', through which a narrow braid can be introduced. 1f the end of this braid is brought up again through the hole .9 and the sewing-machine is set in motion with the chainstiteh mechanism, the chain-stitch will appear on the upper surface of the braid when the sewing is finished.

In producing the various stitches, with the exception of the chain-stitch and of the Grover & Baker stitch, a shuttle, S or S, is used which travels in a circular orbit, O, and which is propelled by a siuittle-drivcr, II, mounted on the driving-shaft F, or on a shaft receiving its motion from said driving-shaft.

The shuttle Sis constructed with one curved point and a rounded stern, as shown in Fi 23. Its bottom is fiat, and the shuttle-driver is provided with a projection, t, on one side to fit the concave side of said shuttle. In the interior of said stern is situated the flat bobbin c, which contains the shuttle-thread, and this bobbin is subjected to the action of a friction-spring, a, which bears directly on the thread, as indicated in Fig. 23. The thread on being taken from the bobbin u is passed out through one of the holes in in the sole of the shuttle which bears againstthe circular orbit or shuttle-race 0.

The shuttle S is constructed with two points, as shown in Fig. 25, and in this case the bobbin u is placed in the middle, and the thread passes out either through a hole near the bobbin ,or through a hole in either of the points, and the shuttle-driver is so shaped that one side thereof fits the concave side of the shuttle S.

The shuttles S and S are or may be provided on their soles with a projecting ridge, (1 near their outer edges, of such a width that the friction of the thread between the shuttle and the race will not, while the shuttle is pass ing through the loopot' the needle-thread, impart to the thread a twirling motion, and consequently the thread is preserved from injury.

The circular shuttle-race is also provided with a ridge, b, near its outer edge, and it provided with a movable center, 0, which is subjected to the action of a spring, (1', that has a tendency to force the center in toward the shuttle-d river. lfdcsired, a similar center may be fitted into the slmttle-driver. This center serves to retain the shuttle-thread, subjecting it to a slight strain, and the stitch can thus be finished while the shuttle, or that part thereof from which the thread emanates, passes opposite to the needle. The shuttle is retained in its orbit by a circular case, V, which is provided with a hook to assist in carrying the thread or threads over the back of the shuttle.

If desired, the shuttle-race can be arranged in a horizontal plane, as shown in Figs. 33 and 34, and in this case the shuttle-driver is mounted on a vertical shaft, to which motion is imparted from the driving-shaft by a bevelgear, or in any other suitable manner.

The method in which the various stitches are produced is represented in Figs. 3 to 1T,inclusive. For the purpose of producing the simple lock-stitch the double or the single pointed shuttle maybe used. The point of the shuttle enters the loop of the needle-thread, as shown in Fig. 3, and as the motion of the shuttle proceeds the loop of the needlethread is opened and the shuttle passes clear through it, carrying with it the shuttle-thread, which is retained in the position shown in Figs. 3 and 3*, respectively, by the movable center 0'. As that portion of the shuttle from which the thread emanates passes opposite the needle the shuttle-thread is stretched clear across the shuttlerace, Fig. 3*, while the needle rises to its highest point, and at that moment the stitch is finished. During the whole time the stitch is being finished the strain of the needle-thread, and also that of the shuttle-thread, is in the direction of the axis of the needle, and consequently the nredle is not subjected toa lateral strain, and the stitches, when finished, pass up through the hole .9 without catching at the edge thereof, which is of particular importance in making coil lock-stitches, where knots are formed by the threads, which are liable to catch at the under edge of the needlehole and prevent the stitches being properly finished. The coil lock-stitch is made either as shown in Figs. 4 to 7, or as shown in Figs. 8 to 11, in all of which it is made by a single passage of the shuttle. In either of these cases an additional thread'guide, l or I, is used, for the purpose of retaining the shuttle-thread in the proper position to produce the desired stitch.

The thread-guide I (shown in Fig. 4) has a round shank, d, which tits into a corresponding socket in the elbow-lever e, to which an oscillating motion is imparted by the combined action of the cam f and spring 9, said cam being mounted on the driving-shaft F, as shown in Fig. 2. From the shank (1 extends a supportingplate, it, which is held in contact with that portion of the frame A in which the shuttle-race is formed by a spring, i, which bears against a stud projectingt'rom the lever 6. On .the plate It is mounted the iingerj, which is subjected to the action of a spring, k. By said finger the shuttle-thread is caught and held in the position shown in Fig. 5 until the point of the shuttle passes through the loop of the needle-thread and in ft out ofits own thread, and as the shuttle progresses in its orbit the threads are interlaced and a stitch is formed such as shown in Figs. 7 and 35.

The tln'ead-guide l is shown in Fig. 8. It is similar to the thread-guide I; but instead of the fingerj it is provided with a springrod, 1, which catches the shuttle-thread and retains it in the position in which it is shown in Fig. 9. It will be noticed that in this case the shuttle-thread passes from the material to be sewed behind the needle and in front of the shuttle, whereas in the stitch shown in Fig. 5 it passes in front of the needle and behind the shuttle. Otherwise the stitch, when finished, as shown in Fig. 11, is similar to that shown in Fig. 7; but this latter stitch has the great advantage that it appears on the surface of the material to be sewed in a slightly-oblique position, thus imitating the ordinary handstitch on leather or other similar material, for by examining closely Figs. 7 and 11 it will be observed that, it both stitches are drawn up tight, in the former case the needle-thread is twisted, while the shuttle-thread lies straight, but in the latter case the shuttle-thread is twisted and the needle-thread lies straight.

Another manner in which a coil lock-stitch is formed is shown in Figs. 12 to 15. In this case a threadguide, I, is used, such as shown in Fig. 12, and by this thread-guide the loop of the needle-thread is retained in the position shown in Fig. 14, allowing the shuttle to pass twice through the loop of the needlethread. The stitch thus formed is shown in Fig. 15, and when this stitch isdrawn up tight it forms a coil-lock which cannot possibly be ripped, and which is of value for sewing heavy fabrics or materials, and which may also be used for button-holes.

In order to adjust the machine for the various stitches the driving-shaft F is made hot low, and through itextends a solid shaft, F, to one end of which is secured the shuttle-driver, while on its opposite end is mounted the button K. This button is provided with three notches, in m m, as shown particularly in Fig. 22. These notches are intended to receive the springcatch 0, which is secured to the flywheel L, and forms the coupling between the shafts F F. It the button Kis turned so that said spring-catch dropsiuto notch m, the ma.- chiuc is set for the stitch represented by Figs.

5 to 11, and the shuttle driver is in position to receive the double-pointed shuttle. If the button is turned so that the springeatch drops into the notch in, and the multiplyinggears N Q, hereinafter described, are thrown into engagement, the machine is so adjusted that the shuttle is passed twice through the loop of the needle'thread, making the coil lock-stitch; and, finally, it the button is turned so as to allow the spring-catch to drop into notch m the shuttle-driver is in position to receive the singlcpointed shuttle, making the coil lockstitch. In this latter case, however, the spring catch has to be raised so that it releases the button K after the back gear M is thrown in gear with the cog-wheels N Q. Said hack gear is mounted on a shaft, to which a longitudinal sliding motion can be imparted by the handle 19, and the wheel N is mounted on the hollow driving-shaft F, while the wheel Q is mounted on the solid shaft F.

The proportion between the wheels N Q and the wheels of the back gear is such that by the action of said back gear the speed of the shaft F is doubled, and consequently the shuttle makes two revolutions in its orbit for every stroke of the needle.

The cogs of the wheels of the back gear are rounded, as cleaily shown in Fig. 2, so as to facilitate the operation of throwing said wheels in gear with the wheels N Q.

For the purpose of making the Grover 8: Baker stitch and the ordinary chain-stitch,the shuttle is removed, and in the former case the thread-guide I is used, as shown in Fig. 16. The spool of the lower thread is attached to a pin, g, which is secured to any appropriate spot on the stand A, and the threadguide carries the loopcr or lower needle, 0", which is provided with an eye to receive the lower thread, and which acts in conjunction with the needle a, precisely like the looper or lower needle in the Grover & Baker machine.

The chain-stitch is produced by the threadguide 1". (Shown in Fig. 17.) This threadguide is provided with a hook,.s-', which catches in the loop of the necdlc-thrcad and retains the same in the proper position toallow the needle to pass through the loop of its own thread.

The operation of removing one of the threadguides and substituting therefor another is very simple, and the machine can be readily adjusted for either of the above-named stitches.

It neither of the threadguides is used a stop, I, is inserted, which throws the lever 6 out of gear with the cam f It remains to describe the sewing-guide, which is represented in Figs. 27 and 26, the edge-guide, which is represented in Figs; 29 and 30, and the binder, which is represented in Figs. 31 and 32.

The sewing-guide It is composed of a plate, which is secured by means of a stem, t, in the front end of the standard 13, and which is provided with an oblique lip, a, that bears on the surface of the material to be sewed, and causes it to work up close to the gage r. This gage is adjustable on a rod, to, which is secured to the upper surface of the guide, and it is held in the desired position by a set-screw, a By adjusting the gage the width of the seam is regulated.

The edge-guide T is composed of a rod, which is secured in the front end of the standard B, and which is curved and bent, as shown in the drawings. Its end is provided with a socket to receive the stud b, which is furnished with a round head, and which is subjected to the action ofa spring, 0. This guide is to be usedin scwingthick material, such as leather; and the head of the stud b is made to bear against the edge of said material, so as to produce a seam which is equidistant from the edge whether said edge be curved or straight.

The binder U is composed of a U-shaped piece of sheet metal, which is secured to a curved rod, 0 to be secured in the front end of the standard B. Said binder is provided with a series of oblique slots, (1, of different widths, through which braid is passed, as indicated in Fig. 31. The shank of the center Wis also secured in the standard B, (see Fig. 19,) and the curved arm f which supports the center, is elastic, so that the material can be readily relieved by raising the center.

Vhat I claim as new, and desire to secure" by Letters Patent, is-

1. Providing the oscillatingarm which takes up the slack of the needle-thread with an oblong slot, substantially as described, so as to keep the loop of the needle-thread open to let the shuttle pass twice.

2. The needle 02, provided with a slotted shank, substantially as shown in Fig. 20.

3. The rough-surfaced clamp j, moving from below in opposition to the spring presser-foot above the goods, and operating, substantially as described, to hold the material while the stitch is being finished.

4. The double-pointed shuttle, as shown in Fig. 25, and arranged to work continuously in either direction.

5. The ridge (4." on that side ot the shuttle which faces the needle, substantially as and for the purpose described.

6. The elastic center 0 operating as described, in combination with the revolving shuttle, constructed and operating substantially as and for the purpose described.

7. The circular ridge near the outer edge of the shuttle-race, substantially as described, to allow the shuttle to clear its own thread and to leave the loop of the needle-thread free to pass over the shuttle.

8. The button K, provided with a series of notches, in combination with a suitable stop or latch and with the shafts F F and shuttledriver H, constructed and operating substan tially as and for the purpose set forth.

9. The back gear M, in combination with the shafts F F, shuttle-driver H, and needle 71, constructed and operating substantially as and for the purpose described.

10. The method herein described of producing a stitch by the combined action of the thread-guide I, revolving shuttle S, and needle '12, operating together substantially as described, and shown in Figs. 4 to 7, inclusive.

11. The method herein described of producing a stitch by the combined action of the thread-guide 1 shuttle S, and needle a, operating together substantially as described, and shown in Figs. 8 to 11, inclusive.

12. The method herein described of producing a stitch by the combined action of the reciprocating thread-guide I, constructed as described, shuttle S, and needle n, the shuttle being passed twice through the same loop of the needle-thread, as described, and showniu Figs. 12 to 15, inclusive.

A LBIN VAR-TH.

Witnesses WM. F. MCNAMARA, W. HAUFF. 

